The Third
1017 Wellington St., 613-728-2965, facebook.com/thethirdott
Open: Tuesday to Friday 11:30 a.m. to closing, Saturday and Sunday 9 a.m. to closing, closed Monday
Prices: up to $12.50 for mains and burgers
Access: one step to front door
It’s easy to feel nostalgic at the Third.
That’s true, even if the almost-four-month-old pub and eatery’s name is somewhat new-fangled and even a little cryptic. Its explanation lies in the fact that almost 30 years ago, American sociologist Ray Oldenburg came up with “the third place” as a term encompassing venues outside of home (“the first place”) and work (“the second place”) where people gather and a sense of community ensues. I’m sure you get the drift.
Tricky name aside, the Third, a narrow 46-seater with a bar that opened in Hintonburg where the Blackpepper Urban Pub had been, evokes a simple, vintage feel. If the old photo of the Hintonburg Hand Laundry and some associated signage don’t have you thinking about bygone days, the faux tin-wall siding might, along with the well-used tables, wooden pews and chairs surrounded by white and green walls.
And then there’s the concise, all-day menu of snacks, sandwich-based plates and smaller-sized mains. The Third stresses familiar pub and comfort food, minus any of the trendy or worldly tweaks that rule elsewhere. Chef Caroline Murphy, who designed the menu along with co-owner Ashley Struthers, may have cooked previously downtown at the Asian-fusion restaurant Makita and the modern Italian restaurant Town, but at the Third, she has scaled back her food to homey, from-scratch essentials.
Also dialled back at the Third are the prices. Most expensive on the menu is a double-patty bacon cheeseburger for $14.50, but every other sandwich or main course is $12 or less. Glancing at those prices for those dishes, you might think that it’s the 1970s all over again at the Third, even if the sound system isn’t playing Steely Dan.
Struthers links the Third’s pricing to two factors — its smaller portions, which themselves are explained by the uneaten food that Struthers saw returning to other restaurant kitchens in the past, and to her eatery’s efforts to run a “zero-waste” philosophy. Here, being frugal and environmentally minded means that, for example, vegetable scraps end up in soup rather than in the composter.
Given the Third’s eminently affordable fare, unpretentious, convivial spirit and friendly, attentive service, it practically a no-brainer to ask, “What’s not to like?” As long as you don’t need massive portions, truffle oil on your mac and cheese or kimchi on your burger, you should do quite well.
During several visits, we received some likeable hits and a few forgivable misses.
At a dinner visit, a Caesar salad ($7) was a fresh and basic yet flavourful starter that happily made good on the menu’s assertion that its dressing contained anchovies.
Caesar salad at the Third
A bacon cheeseburger ($12) had none of the fancy fixings or monumental height that defines more expensive burgers elsewhere, but it nailed the essentials with its appreciable crust and juiciness. A club sandwich ($11) made with turkey breast and homemade bread was also spot-on. Equally simple and well-made was a bowl of chunky chicken noodle soup ($5), served with toasted home-made bread on the side.
Bacon cheeseburger at the Third
Club sandwich at the Third
Chicken Noodle Soup at the Third
Occasionally the salting of some items has gotten away from the kitchen, as with the fries that came with that club sandwich, or the perfectly crisp sweet potato fries that came with a respectable veggie-nut burger ($10). Some house-made potato chips ($3) were also markedly over-salted, and it was a good thing that the home-made onion dip masked things.
Veggie burger and sweet potato fries at the Third
Potato chips at the Third
Three of four main dishes were definitely worth re-ordering. Fish and chips ($10) were admirably crisp and not oily, and the haddock came with some superior tartar sauce. The vegetarian option — a combo of roasted butternut squash and quinoa ($9) accented with turmeric, raisins, feta, kale and parsley — was a lovely, zesty creation. Our table’s carnivore appreciated moist chunks of pork tenderloin ($11) served with cabbage slaw and sweet potatoes.
Fish and chips at the Third
Quinoa squash vegetarian main course at the Third
Pork tenderloin main course at the Third
Only the quarter chicken under a brick with mac and cheese ($12) underwhelmed, because the nice, starchy side outshone the chicken leg, which lacked seasoning and crispness.
Chicken under a brick at the Third
A warm chocolate chip walnut cookie with milk ($3), the only dessert on the menu, impressed with its home-made feel.
Chocolate chip and walnut cookie at the Third
We also had breakfast last weekend at the Third, happily seated in the sunny nook by the front window. Then, house-made scones ($4 each) were massive and dense, and needed the compote that came with them. Most notably, but perhaps because we wanted them to land before our main breakfasts, the pastries were undercooked with doughy centres. We let our server know about the shortcoming, and weren’t charged for the scones.
Scone at The Third
Better was a classic plate of eggs Benedict ($10) with ham, proper hollandaise sauce, and a brightly dressed, nicely contrasting salad. Best was the “mish-mash hash” ($8) of ham and potatoes below two fried eggs. The dish was a winner thanks to its bold, barbecue-like seasoning. I would have liked the French toast ($8) more had it been fluffier.
Eggs Benedict at The Third
Mish Mash Hash at The Third
French toast at the Third
About a dozen beers are on tap, including local brews by Kichesippi, Dominion City and Ashton Brewing Company. Wine choices are more limited but among them are on-tap wines from Niagara’s Vineland Estates Winery.
From what I’ve seen, Hintonburg residents has been quick to embrace the Third as a hangout true to its name. My easy-going, budget-friendly experiences make me think that it’s worth popping in even if you don’t live in the neighbourhood.
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Peter Hum’s restaurant reviews