The Clarendon Tavern
11 George St., 613-422-5111, theclarendon.ca
Open: 11:30 to 2 a.m. Daily
Prices: all dishes under $20
Access: steps to front door and to the backyard patio, which can also be accessed separately
The arrival in late May of the Clarendon Tavern in the ByWard Market strikes me as practically a defiant gesture against recent conditions that have made opening and running restaurants in Ottawa more difficult.
The eatery replaces the Black Tomato, which was shuttered last fall after its owner proclaimed that Ontario’s minimum wage was the last straw that broke the back of his two-decade-old business.
And yet, at a time when most of Ottawa’s new eateries seem to be small Asian businesses popping up where rents are cheapest, the Clarendon, located in a beautiful heritage stone building on George Street at Sussex Drive, is the latest venture by the expanding Eighteen Hospitality Group, which includes the nearby restaurants Eighteen, Social and Sidedoor, plus another newcomer, Jackson in the Ottawa Art Gallery.
Furthermore, at a time when the costs of ingredients are rising and thereby driving up menu prices, the Clarendon keeps everything on its one-page gastropub menu under $20.
During the recent swelter, I’ve had three meals on the Clarendon’s charming, 50-seat backyard patio, beyond its renovated interior, which seats 90, and includes circular banquettes next to its bar. Overall, I’ve found that food-wise, the Clarendon’s executive chef, Chef Dave Godsoe, who also runs the haute-cuisine kitchen at Eighteen, has pulled it off, with the Clarendon’s best dishes combining big and admirable flavours, some interesting tweaks to standard fare, and good value.
All of our smaller plates and snack-sized items were on the mark. We thought very highly of Godsoe’s crisp and spicy “K.F.” Cauliflower ($12), its bed of chili-cashew spread, and smear of cooling raita. Another well-fried choice — especially when discounted during happy hour — was the Clarendon’s chorizo Scotch egg ($8, or $5 during happy hour) with its properly molten yolk lovingly encased in sausage. Tuna poke ($16) registered more as a Asian tartare to me, but nomenclature aside, its tuna was fresh and its well-made accompaniments played well together.
K.F. Cauliflower at the Clarendon Tavern
Chorizo Scotch egg at the Clarendon Tavern
Tuna poke at the Clarendon Tavern
Roughly a third of the Clarendon’s savoury offerings are thin-crust flatbreads and we were happy with the two that we tried. The more straightforward of the two featured tender shrimp ($16) and some surprising but meaningful heat from chili flecks. The duck confit flatbread ($16) was another tasty choice, although it skewed just a little sweet from its orange-spread component, while its black garlic, miso and sesame notes seemed underplayed.
Shrimp flatbread at the Clarendon Tavern
Duck confit flatbread at the Clarendon Tavern
We liked some larger plates more than others. While nothing that we tasted was bland, there were quibbles here and there. Cod with chips ($18) delivered a hearty crunch thanks to the crushed chips that coated the fish and the fries, “thrice-cooked,” the menu says, were pretty good, if not exemplary in their combination of a crisp exterior and yielding interior. A lamb burger ($19) was easily enjoyed, although its spicy jerk mayo was surprisingly timid.
Cod and chips at the Clarendon Tavern
Lamb burger with fries at the Clarendon Tavern
Fried chicken ($18) consisted of three small, moist thighs whose batter delivered a good hit of flavour, but no crispness. Tender brisket was bolstered with a superior barbecue sauce, but the pickles on the plate could have been punchier. Chicken tikka ($18) won over the person who ordered it, even if he was not wowed from the start. A pork stir fry ($18) drew successfully on Vietnamese flavours with its chili, ginger and caramel notes, but the dish did put a lot of fat on the plate.
Fried chicken at the Clarendon Tavern
Brisket at the Clarendon Tavern
Chicken Tikka at the Clarendon Tavern
Pork stir fry at the Clarendon Tavern
Desserts (all $8) at the Clarendon were sweet and classic rather than adventurous. I’d choose the apple crumble again for sharing, or the cookies and cream milkshake with deep-fried Oreos if I were to hog dessert to myself. A cheesecake fan approved of Godsoe’s sous-vide creation, and chocolate pot au crème was a thick, rich indulgence tucked under peanut butter mousse and slices of caramelized banana.
Apple crumble at the Clarendon Tavern
Milkshake and treat at the Clarendon Tavern
Cheesecake at the Clarendon Tavern
Chocolate pot au creme at the Clarendon Tavern
Service has seemed a little slow to us, although at one lunch we were at least warned that we should be patient, as there was a large party eating inside.
Drinks here keep value in mind: Most cocktails are $11 or $12, a dozen beers on draft are $6.50, $7.50 or $8.50, and most of the 20 wines on offer are $10 or less for a glass or $55 or less for a bottle.
There are fancier, pricier restaurants than the Clarendon in the ByWard Market, including its sister businesses. The Clarendon’s predecessor, the Black Tomato, was also significantly more expensive. But given the struggles of the restaurant industry today, plus the virtues that the Clarendon offers at its price point, you have to wonder if this new tavern on the corner hasn’t done a better job of keeping focused on value and viability.
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Peter Hum’s restaurant reviews