In Thailand, a dish called boat noodles flourishes in the restaurants of several central cities, although it originated in Bangkok in the early 1940s, when, as per its name, it was first served from boats along the capital's canals. Read More
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Dining Out: Nana Thai Cuisine's chef adds lesser-known but vibrant dishes from her homeland to her menu
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Dining Out: Dishes and views at ritzy Le St Laurent impress
Had we not chosen to linger, I might have made a clean getaway. Read More
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Dining Out: Too many raw deals marred the meals at Happy Fish Raw Bar
During my three dinners at the Happy Fish Raw Bar, the servers have been as happy as, let's say, fish in a raw bar. They were certainly more chipper than I would have been in their shoes. Read More
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Dining Out: Farinella serves up pizza and gelato satisfaction
Last week, a colleague of mine was in desperate need of a pizza pick-me-up. Read More
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Dining Out: Tamis Café brings Filipino favourites to Centretown
Three years ago, I learned that the word for "sweet" in Tagalog, the national language of the Philippines, was "tamis." Read More
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Dining Out: Nikosi Bistro Pub a distinctive, uncomplicated eatery in Wakefield
A week ago, we got a jump on the long weekend by spending Friday afternoon in Wakefield. Some time kayaking on the Gatineau River would do us good, my wife and I thought. But first, we had lunch at Nikosi Bistro Pub. Read More
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Dining Out: At Grunt in Mechanicsville, seasoned young chef serves fine food, does good deeds
At first, when we learned of the memorably named new restaurant Grunt and its pig-themed logos, we wondered if we should brace ourselves for a celebration of swine. Read More
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Dining Out: No-frills grills at Suya Palace and African Grill turn out tasty, highly seasoned meat
In the real world, my travels to Africa have been scant. Decades ago, I was in Morocco for an afternoon. More recently, I spent a few days playing tourist in Cape Town and its surrounding winelands, which some say hardly represents the continent. Read More
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Dining Out: Some pretty dishes bloomed, others wilted at Tulip Restaurant
In the fall of 2017, when David Vinoya was the chef of Wild Sage Kitchen & Bar in Regina, he won that city's Gold Medal Plates competition after wowing judges with a striking dish that he had enigmatically dubbed "The Nest." Read More
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Dining Out: Alice in Little Italy is a trailblazer, and should be recognized nationally
The very first intrigue at Alice, the uniquely vegetable-focused fine-dining restaurant that chef-owner Briana Kim opened in June, involves assuring yourself that you have come to the right address. Read More
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Dining Out: 1 Elgin, the revitalized NAC restaurant, scores with Indigenous-inspired fall menu
For four decades, Le Café, the National Arts Centre's restaurant, won over innumerable fans. Read More
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Dining Out: All-Canadian menu at Gray Jay pushes boundaries of creativity
The second time I ate at Gray Jay, I knew better than to ask for coffee. Read More
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Dining Out: Last Train to Delhi serves thoughtful Indian food for the spicy-averse
During my two dinners at Last Train To Delhi, the question I'd expected to hear just never came up. Read More
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Dining Out: Luxurious, hedonistic eating at Gitanes on Elgin Street
As the cool kids like to say, the menu at Gitanes was lit. Read More
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Dining Out: Fauna a contender for best restaurant dinner in Ottawa this year
We went recently to Fauna Food + Bar on a whim, after a last-minute need for a nice dinner out caught us by surprise. Read More
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Dining Out: Bistro Ristoro in the Market serves appealing pizzas and hearty, uncommon Balkan fare
Ottawa has lots of eateries that describe their fare as Mediterranean. But what do they really mean by that? Read More
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Dining Out: Bella's Boys food shop keeps legacy and dishes of their mother's bistro alive
A year ago, I was all set to write a glowing review of Bella's Bistro on Wellington Street West, which after two decades was still going strong and serving its much-liked and comforting Italian food to packed houses. Read More
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Dining Out: At Cumin Indian Grill in Centretown, street-food items satisfied most
For most of the last decade, if not longer, the hole-in-the-wall at 373 Somerset St. W. was home to a modest Indian eatery called Basmati. Then, last year, it became Café Delish, which served crepes and waffles, but also Indian food. Read More
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From sea urchin to take-out pasta, the Citizen's favourite dishes of 2019
Looking back at my eighth year of reviewing restaurants, I see a 2019 that was filled with an even bigger glut than usual of great dishes. Read More
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A decade of deliciousness: The Citizen's favourite dishes of the 2010s
From my run in the 2010s as a restaurant critic, here are the dozen dishes that burn most brightly in my memory. That goes double for the atomic jerk chicken. Read More
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